Archive for Alaska

Pacific [far]Northwest

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on October 16, 2023 by xi'an

The last week of our BCations was spent in Prince Rupert, 54⁰18’W, on Kaien Island, almost the northernest coastal spot before Alaska. (Although Stewart, 55⁰56’W, may qualify.) With a much more oceanic [and cooler] weather than in farther south, still warm enough to swim in the ocean. And an interesting airport since it sits on another island, with an airport bus taking all passengers from the airport to town via a 15mn ferry, and luggages being delivered only at the end. (Which led to some confusion on our side!)

This place was once called “the halibut capital of the World”, with numerous canneries of halibut and salmon along the coastline. We visited one such (p)reserved cannery, the North Pacific Cannery, which operated till the 1980’s with appalling working and living conditions (and racial discriminations against First Nation, Chinese and Japanese workers). Which made me realise that Canada had also turned to the internment of Japanese descendants during WW II. While there is some degree of recognition of the First Nation rights to land, since 95% of BC territory is unceded, with acknowledgments of which First Nation one uses the land, the persistence of the colonial era struck me in the numerous topographical names with British connections, from the name of the province, to the name of the city, the first Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company. (The fish we ate while in Prince Rupert was fabulous!)

Prince Rupert is a passenger ferries and cruise stop, even though most unfortunately the ferry to Alaska was not running this year, supposedly due to staff shortage, although this could be yet another round of the US-Canada dispute of the area. (Cruise days are to be avoided at all costs, as cruisers invade the waterfront and even the closest hiking trails!) This is also the northwesternmost container port in North America connected by rail (hence, an unceasing parade of  endless CPR trains).

the alpinist [film review]

Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 1, 2023 by xi'an

Watched (with supplementary oxygen) The Alpinist in the plane to Jeddah. It is a documentary (made by the same filmmakers who filmed the Dawn Wall) about the amazing Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, who died in 2018 on the Mendenhall Glacier, Alaska, in an avalanche, after achieving extraordinary complex solo climbs as eg on Mount Robbson, Cerro Torre in Patagonia. These are winter climbs, partly ice climbing, where no repetition is possible and where the objective conditions (hence dangers) may vary considerably. In that regard, these achievements could be argued to go even beyond Alex Honnold’s free solo climb of El Capitan, where Honnold practiced the route over and over before making his successful free solo attempt. (Obviously an inhuman achievement when considering the hardest bits are at least 7c!) Watching Marc-André Leclerc when mixed climbing is just as heart stopping as watching Honnold rock climbing. He must have been incredibly strong to master these monstruous icy walls and maintain his absolute vigilance in each crampon move, in each ice-pick placement. Sadly it ended up with an avalanche… I obviously enjoyed X’ing many places I had visited, like the approach walk to Robson (in 1991!), the Three Sisters of Canmore [below], and routes of Squamish [above]. (I wonder who filmed during these non-advertised climbs. For instance, he told no one except his partner when he summited Mount Robson. In some cases he was clearly self-filing at lower intensity points, but in others it could have been an helicopter (or a drone?). In this respect, but by far not only in this respect, his blog is definitely worth the read.)


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Balto’s genome

Posted in Books, Kids, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on May 5, 2023 by xi'an

a journal of the plague year [lost September reviews]

Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 12, 2020 by xi'an

Read a (red) book I bought in Chamonix last January (sounds like last century, at the very least!) at the Éditions Guérin bookshop, The Bond, by Simon McCartney, translated in French as The Ghosts from Denali. It starts more or less like a traditional mountain climbing story, with a pair of cocky young climbers attacking a new and difficult route and managing the opening despite severe adverse circumstances, which is what Simon McCartney and Jack Roberts did for the north face of Mount Huntington in Alaska, having run out of food and facing the constant threat of collapsing seracs. It however turns into a inner introspection as McCartney gets stranded on the mythical Eiger Nordwand (just like many before him!) after his large group keeps breaking their Charlet Moser icepicks due to the cold (!) and end up being airlifted. He later manages a Winter climb of the Eiger and reunites with Roberts to attempt the south face of Denali, never climbed before. This is when the book takes off, from the sheer difficulty of the route to the amazing unpreparation of the climbers, to Simon’s cerebral embolism building up and bringing him a hair away from death, to the altruism of several other climbers on the mountain to bring him down from the death zone, especially Bo Kandiko, and to a trauma-induced complete break from climbing when McCartney got out of Anchorage hospital. This is gripping and moving and unbelievable. The book received a Banff Mountain Festival award and no wonder. The story told by McCartney is actually seamlessly completed by diary excerpts by Roberts and Kandiko, where they question their own involvement against the very real danger of dying from staying with McCartney, much more than giving up their own attempt against the deadly mountain. A terrific mountaineering book, truly. As a sad coda, Roberts died ice-climbing Bridal Veil Falls a few days before McCartney’s attempt to reunite with him.

Spent several evenings baking fig jam when returning from the Alps as the fig tree was full! And ended up with a total of 35 jars. Resulting into a full “marmalade closet”, as in the past weeks my mom home-made the same amount of peach jelly and my wife’s mom even more rhubarb marmalade jars. Enough to stand a whole year of lockdown, jam-wise. And ate some of the few but tasty peppers that grew in our garden, for the very first time, despite the welcomed tomato and squash invasion! Also ate a terribly greasy risotto in a supposedly highly noted restaurant…

Started watching Dark on Netflix, a German dark time-travel fiction. But while I enjoyed the complex story, the play of the young actors, and the appeal of watching a show (and a Greek play within the show, with Ariádnê and Thêseús of course!) in German, the endless paradoxes of time-travel and the duration of the series made me stop after a few episodes, the town of Winden keeping most of its mystery for me.

out of the wild

Posted in Books, Kids, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , on June 25, 2020 by xi'an