Archive for hiking

お山は晴天 [not!]

Posted in Mountains, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on September 17, 2026 by xi'an


As a follow-up to the Akaike lecture, I was hoping to summit Fuji-san for my 65th B’day but it did not work out, thanks to a rain storm (remnant of a typhoon) keeping Fuji-san out of reach that day (and even blocking the access road for a few hours by causing a landslide). The warden were strongly discouraging all entries including mine’s, with reasonable arguments (that mountain rescue would be unavailable). I thus only experienced the less appealing aspects of Fuji’rism, from the predictable, gaudy souvenir shops at the stations, to some Western summiteers walking (and loudly talking) like decorated war heroes, to the crowded buses to access or leave the 5th station—I got stuck next to two French speaking Swiss boasting of their hike and travel experiences in Japan, entitled, obnoxious, and entirely oblivious to the fact that they were the loudest people on the bus!, to the noisy hostel where it seemed a group was departing every half-hour of the short night (even though in the end only four people got access to the trail and ended up turning back). With no glimpse of Fuji-san the entire stay. The title is a traditional sentence hoping for a clear day when summiting Fuji-san.

Asahi-dake [jatp]

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , on September 14, 2026 by xi'an

back from Japan [flotsam, jetsam, lagan, and derelict]

Posted in Books, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on August 8, 2026 by xi'an

Our last day in Japan was wrecked by Japan Airlines, as our JAL flight from Sapporo to Tokyo Haneda got delayed by five hours… The worst part was being kept in the dark about the delay till the initial departure time and then more as the actual departure time was only given hours later. An opportunity to find out that EU rules about flight compensations and passenger rights do not have a Japanese equivalent..! The only plus side of spending the day at the airport was enjoying a sashimi meal at the Sapporo airport. The next day, the erupting Krasheninnikov volcano in Kamtchatka caused a slight change of flight on the way (North!) back to Paris but Air France still managed a 45mn gain on the planned arrival time. And hardly any jetlag in the following days, as opposed to the unusually long accustomisation through the nights in Nagoya and Tachikawa.

This was the only major hitch of our trip, besides a rental car delay for missing the official translation of our driving licences. Visiting both the Japanese Alps and the island of Hokkaido was a fantastic opportunity, thanks to ISBA 2026. Along enjoying the views and hikes in both locations, I could not refrain from making a connection between the geographies and histories of the Ainus on Hokkaido and of the Haidas in the Pacific Northwest, as they both got colonised and forcibly integrated at about the same epoch, with salmon canning companies enslaving them. The settlers were demoted Union soldiers in one case and former samurais (tondenhei) in the other. Small towns on Hokkaido had some similarities with those of the American and Canadian West, with one-street layout and plenty of space between houses, except for these spaces being intensely cultivated as all of the valleys I saw during that trip. (But very little wildlife, with a single sorry-looking fox, two fleeing monkeys, a single, inquisitive, squirrel, a few deers and no bear.)

On the mountains (and volcanoes) trails, I was impressed by the involvement and preparedness of most Japanese hikers, often quite senior, in climbing volcanoes and facing bear encounters, which also made me discover a very nice local outdoor brand, Mont Bell. (Also finding out that TNF Japan© is a separate franchise with its own products.) And adopt the hiking uniform of wearing shorts and tights, which proved surprisingly comfortable!

Due to a thrombosis scare, I further had the opportunity to visit (again!) the local hospital in Omachi, Nagoya Prefecture, if getting there by bike rather than by water-ambulance. With hugely efficient processing despite the language barrier (except for the doctor with whom I briefly spoke of Mont-Saint-Michel!). And the conclusion of no thrombosis, phew!

into the mild [jatp]

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , on August 3, 2026 by xi'an

Xing²⁰ Corsica

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , on September 20, 2024 by xi'an