Archive for Þingvellir

a journal of the chaos, conquest, war, famine, and death [by drowning & ordeal] year

Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 1, 2024 by xi'an

Read Indriðason’s Sigurverkið (The king and the clockmaker) while spending the day in Charles de Gaulle airport waiting for my flight to Birmingham. This is an historical if romanced novel taking place around 1800 in both Iceland and Denmark. It is somewhat connected to Hannah Kent’s Burial Rites, —which impressed me so much that it became a customary book gift—in that this 2021 book by Indriðason is also about a judicial execution of a woman (and her lover) in Iceland, if a few decades earlier and by drowning in a bag at Thingvellir—which we visited during AISTATS in 2014—. The story is however told in a plainer style, the son of this woman being both the narrator, and the clockmaker repairing the historical clock of Habrecht—which was indeed in the Danish Royal Collection at the time and about to be repaired— , while the audience is the mentally unstable and in-name-only King of Denmark, Christian VII, whose father, Frederik V, had (twice) condemned the victims to death. Since the main story is known from the start there is no suspense and little sense of urgency, which makes the book slow-paced and not very engaging, even though the depiction of 18th Century Iceland and its dominion by the Danish crown remains interesting, as well as the historical basis for the executions, the Stóradomi [Great Edict] of 1564 that prescribed beheading for men and drowning for women in case of incest (which actually did not take place for the unjustly executed couple).

Made half a dozen ginger jam jars, as it is currently plentiful and very cheap at the local market (although shipped from Brazil!). But mostly because it is my wife’s favourite jam. Resulting in a definitely tangy jam, despite adding rhubarb, (entire) lemons and pears. Also took advantage of a sea brass BBQ to cook on the side sweet potatoes towards an unusual humus.

Watched (at last!) Scott’s The Last Duel, which foundations appealed to me for being a medieval remake of [my favourite movie] Rashōmon and for supposedly taking place in the vicinity of my home county (supposedly so because no scene was shot in or nearby Normandy!). The outcome is mixed for me, as the setting remains Disney-esque despite the use of medieval castles with tidy landscapes and interiors—the Castle of Carrouge being too “modern” for that purpose—, extensive battle scenes—why would hidden archers resort to fiery arrows?!—, a knighthood quite late in the coming,  out-of-tune medieval music, an absurd medieval transplant of the modern constant need to hold a drink, a cartoonesque Paris (where Notre Dame had already been completed and where watermills fed by rainwater would not have lasted very long), but also Damon’s credible play-acting as a medieval lout, strong hints at the [Fol] King Charles VI’s unstable mind, impressive acting of Jodie Comer against her judges, along a ghastly reminder that in medieval times rape was not believed to induce pregnancy. Background conversations are in French, but clash with the main actors’ English (maiming all French names!). So it could have been worse, witness Scott’s Napoleon!

Reykjavik nights [book review]

Posted in Books, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , on March 26, 2016 by xi'an

While this is the latest book in the Erlendur series by Icelandic author Arnaldur Indriðason, Reykjavik Nights [or Reykjavíkurnætur] is also the earliest in the chronology of the series since it relates to the first years of Erlendur in the Icelandic police and to murders that took place in 1974 in Reykjavik. The book may appeal mostly to those who have already read (the) other books in the series, as it explains very little about Erlendur’s past and the reasons he is so fascinated by missing persons. It is however a great read, despite or thanks to very little action when touring the nights of Reykjavik and arresting drunks weekend after weekend. (There is a slight interlude when Erlendur takes part in policing the 1100 anniversary celebrations of the settlement of Iceland at Þingvellir where the Alþing, the original Icelandic parliament stood.) Actually, I find the detective part less than convincing but it hardly matters since the development of the character of Erlendur is very well conducted. With a constant focus throughout the series on themes like domestic violence and drunkenness. A very pleasant read.

a glacial PhD in Iceland [job announcement]

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Statistics, Travel, University life with tags , , , , , , on February 3, 2016 by xi'an

[Here is a PhD offer at the University of Iceland that may be of interest to some readers or their students. I would have been interested 30 years ago!]

The Department of Mathematics at the University of Iceland (UI) seeks applicants for a fully funded 3 year PhD position for the project Statistical Models for Glaciology.

The student will develop Bayesian hierarchical spatio-temporal models to the field of glaciology, working with a consortium of experts at the University of Iceland, the University of Missouri and the Norwegian University of Science and Technology. The key people in the consortium are Prof. Birgir Hrafnkelsson at UI, Prof. Chris Wikle, and Prof. Håvard Rue, experts in spatial statistics and Bayesian computation. Another key person is Prof. Gudfinna Adalgeirsdottir at UI, an expect in glaciology. The Glaciology group at UI possesses extensive data and knowledge about the Icelandic glaciers.

The application deadline is February 29, 2016.

Detailed project description

Job ad with information on how to apply:

Móskarðshnjúkar [hiking near Reykjavik]

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , on June 7, 2015 by xi'an

moskard1Today, as I had a free day (with 24 hour daylight!) in Reykjavik before the NBBC15 conference started, thanks to the crazy schedules of the low cost sister of Air France, Transavia (!), I went in search of a hike… Which is not very difficult in Iceland! moskard2I had originally planned to stop near Geysir as the dirt road beyond Gullfoss is off-limit for rental cars. Especially small 2WD like mine.

As I was driving the first kms of the Þingvellir road, I admired the Esjan range starting with the Esja mountain that we had climbed during our previous visit to Iceland. Especially the “last” peak that glowed with a warm yellow (and apparently no snow at all). More especially, because it had a top reminding me of the Old Man of Storr on its slope. (Not that I could spot it while driving!) And quickly decided this was a great opportunity for a nice hikemoskard4 and a minimum of driving as I was about 20 mn from down-town Reykjavik.

I thus took a dirt road that seemed to get closer to my goal and after 500m came to a farm yard where I parked the car and went hiking, aiming at this peak,  which name is Móskarðshnjúkar. Despite a big cut due to a torrent after the first hill, I managed to keep enough to high ground not to loose any altitude and sticking to the side of the ski station Skálafellmoskard5 (where a few people were still skiing with the noisy help of two snowmobiles), I crossed the brook easily as it was covered by snow and started moving to steeper if manageable slopes. I moskard6reached the bottom of the main peak rather quickly and then understood both its colour and the absence of snow.

As maybe visible from some of my pictures (?), the Móskarðshnjúkar peak is covered with gravel in a bright yellow stone that seems to accumulate heat very well. Climbing stramoskard3ight on the loose gravel was then impossible and I had to zigzag mostly up, trying to not lose too much ground to micro-avalanches. As I reached the tor I spotted two hikers above me and when I reached the top I realised there was a path coming from the west, connecting this peak with its neighbours. The normal route seems to come from a gravel road that starts close to Mount Esja, to the west, and as I followed the path down to the saddle between Móskarðshnjúkar and the rest of the range, I saw this path winding down to the valley with further hikers coming up. Before I crossed them, I went up again to the next peak, which was an easy if beautiful ridge walk, with moskard7still a fair amount of snow remaining on the north face (heavy enough to bear tracks of snowmobiles!). After following the ridge track for a while, it branched north to reach the main Esja plateau and I left the track to get down a rocky shoulder towards my starting point. However, I had forgotten about the torrent cut between the two ranges and this forced me to take a further detour. And to cross the torrent barefooted, as there was no stone ford on this off-path section. No big drama as the melted snow water was not that cold…

moskard8A last sight was provided by the final rocky outcrop, which enjoyed basaltic volcanic columns as on the picture above. A terrific hiking half-day with a sharp sunny weather and not too much wind except at the top. It was very pleasant to walk part of the way on moss and last year grass, with a surprising absence of bogs and mud when compared with Scotland.

AISTATS 2014 (day #1)

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running, Statistics, Travel, University life with tags , , , , , on April 23, 2014 by xi'an

divide1First day at AISTATS 2014! After three Icelandic vacations days driving (a lot) and hinkg (too little) around South- and West-Iceland, I joined close to 300 attendees for this edition of the AISTATS conference series. I was quite happy to be there, if only because I had missed the conference last year (in Phoenix) and did not want this to become a tradition… Second, the mix of statistics, artificial intelligence and machine learning that characterises this conference is quite exciting, if challenging at time. What I most appreciated in this discovery of the conference is the central importance of the poster session, most talks being actually introductions to or oral presentations of posters! I find this feature terrific enough (is there such a notion as “terrific enough”?!) worth adopting in future conferences I am involved in. I just wish I had managed to tour the whole collection of posters today… The (first and) plenary lecture was delivered by Peter Bühlman, who spoke about a compelling if unusual (for me) version of causal inference. This was followed by sessions on Gaussian processes, graphical models, and mixed data sources. One highlight talk was the one by Marc Deisenroth, who showed impressive robotic fast learning based on Gaussian processes. At the end of this full day, I also attended an Amazon mixer where I learned about Amazon‘s entry on the local market, where it seems the company is getting a better picture of the current and future state of the U.S. economy than governmental services, thanks to a very fine analysis of the sales and entries on Amazon‘s entry. Then it was time to bike “home” on my rental bike, in the setting sun…