Archive for speed climbing
Bernese trilogy [15h30]
Posted in Books, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags alpine climbing, Bernese Alps, Bernese Oberland, Bernese trilogy, Eiger, Heckmair, Jungfrau, Münch, Nicolas Hojac, Nordwand, north faces, Philipp Brugger, record, Schweiz, speed climbing, Stephan Siegrist, Switzerland, Ueli Steck on April 27, 2025 by xi'angeometric climbing
Posted in Mountains, pictures with tags Adam Ondra, arithmetic mean, bouldering, climbing, climbing accident, geometric mean, lead climbing, NYT, something is wrong on the Internet, speed climbing, The New York Times, Tokyo 2021 Olympics, World champion on August 5, 2021 by xi'anOn the qualifying round for the Tokyo Olympics, the French climber Mickaël Mawem ended up first, while his brother Bassa was the fastest on the speed climb (as a 2018 and 2019 World Champion) but ruptured a tendon while lead climbing and had to be flown back to Paris for a operation. The New York Times inappropriately and condescendingly qualified this first position as being “unexpected” when Mickaël is the 2019 European Champion in bouldering… The NYT is piling up in its belittling by stating that “Anouck Jaubert of France used a second-place finish in speed to squeak into the final¨… (The other French female climber did not make it, despite being one of the first women to reach the 9b level.)
I remain puzzled by the whole concept of mixing the three sports together. As well as by the scoring system, based on a geometric average of the three rankings, which means in particular that the eight finalists will suffer less than in the qualifying round from a poor performance in one of the three climbs (as Adam Ondra for the speed climb). In addition, there is an obscure advantage coming to Adam Ondra for Bassa Mawem cancelling his participation: according to the NYT, “Ondra will receive a bye and an automatic slot in the speed semifinals” meaning “that a likely eighth-place finish in speed — a ranking number that can be hard to overcome in the multiplication of the combined format — will now be no worse than fourth for Ondra”. (The sentence on the strong impact due to the geometric mean is incorrect in that it has less impact that the arithmetic!)
Sumo [France TV on Tokyo Olympics]
Posted in Kids, pictures, Travel with tags 神奈川沖浪裏, France Télévision, Hokusai, Japan, MullenLowe, speed climbing, spot, sumo, The Big Wave, Tokyo 2021 Olympics, torii on August 3, 2021 by xi'anIFSC 2020, Briançon [jatp]
Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags 64 kcal/day, Adam Ondra, bouldering, Briançon, climbing wall, competition, COVID-19, French Alps, Hautes Alpes, IFSC Climbing World Cup, International Federation of Sport Climbing, jatp, on sight climb, pandemics, speed climbing, sport climbing on August 23, 2020 by xi'an


terrific coincidence!
Posted in Mountains, pictures with tags 9c, Adam Ondra, Briançon, climbing, French Alps, IFSC Climbing World Cup, Oisans, Olympics, Serre Chevalier, speed climbing on August 19, 2020 by xi'an
As it happens I am staying for vacations this year at the right place and the right time since the finals of the climbing World cup. In Briançon, southern French Alps, on the French-Italian border. All other events of the World cup have been cancelled and this will be the only competition of the year (which should have seen climbing becoming an Olympic sport, although sadly in a one-fit-all-skills competition). The competition here remains centred on the hardness of the route, with Adam Ondra one of the advertised competitors. I hope we can be part of the 5000 happy few authorised to enter the competition arena tomorrow, for pandemic reasons…!
