Archive for Campo del Ghetto Novo

a journal of the no-end-war year

Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel, University life, Wines with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on May 6, 2026 by xi'an

Read my first book in Italian!, namely the fumetto Favola di Venezia (Sirat Al-Bunduqiyyah) by Hugo Pratt. Which I bought in the nice bookstore of the Santa Lucia train station rather than in the new store dedicated to Corto Maltese, in the Ghetto. It took me a while, as I had to get through word by word, rather than rushing through the dialogues as in French BDs or US comics. But this was most appropriate for a fairly oniric story that is more an homage to Pratt’s childhood place than a political mystery (even though the growth of fascism is also impacting the story). Going through each block that slowly further made me try to recognise some places (without checking websites that identify each real location!). As a coïncidence, The New York Times published a long review of… Fable of Venice and Other Adventures (other meaning “The Secret of Tristan Bantam,” “So Much for Gentlemen of Fortune,” and “The Seagull’s Fault,”) which goes over Pratt’s childhood, in Venice, his family (a grand-father joining early the fascists, via Mussolini’s Fasci Italiani di Combattimento, a father moving the family to Ethiopia in 1937 as an overseer of a fascist labour camp, later dying in an Allied prisoner camp),  his adventures as an errand boy in an Ethiopian brothel, then as a translator for the Allies occupying Venice, and later moving to Buenos Aires to work for a publisher… (Incidentally, I realised during that trip that Milano and Torino only got liberated on 25 Aprile 1945, a few days before the official end of WW II in Europe. Venezia and Padua got liberated on 28 Aprile.)

During my last trip (this semester!) in Venezia, I was (almost) kidnapped for a dinner at la Trattoria alle Vignole, located on the Isola le Vignole, which I had never visited before. (It is located east of Murano, facing the entrance to the Arsenale.) Which proved exceptional in many ways, from the isola(tion), to the absence of any other customers, to the ferry ride, to watching the sunset on Cannaregio and Murano, and of course to the endless flow of sea-food and fish dishes (not mentioning the company!!)… After tasting (or rather devouring!) a colomba pasquale (for Easter), I also brought home several versions of the similar foccacia veneta, for a battle of bakers!

Watched Phantom Lawyer, a rather silly, heavy going, Korean TV series featuring a struggling lawyer who can see ghosts and bring their cases to a satisfactory conclusion. With the usual conflicts of interest, massive coïncidences, and hopelessly slow romantic entanglements.

marginalia de Venezia

Posted in pictures, Running, Travel, Wines with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on July 29, 2024 by xi'an

Spending two weeks in Venezia with an overflowing schedule (from running “the” bridge back and forth every morn to rushing to the Sant’Alvise pool, to rushing back to the talks, to keeping preparing my own food, not to mention the forced intermission in the ospedale) was both exciting and exhausting! But mostly enjoyable in retrieving former routes and strategies to bypass tourist hordes, especially  people walking abreast in narrow calli and sotoporteghi, like these four young women holding hand near Ponte Sant’Antonio (!), or standing in lumps in busy passageways, the epitome being Ponte degli Scalzi I had to X at least twice a day to get to the Ca’ Bottacin campus, where the Ocean retreat was taking place. I particularly liked Xing each (swimming day) the Campo del Ghetto Novo early enough to mix mostly with locals, including the police and army people guarding the synagogue. Not a major feat with an 800 people conference, but I came several times across friends at unexpected spots (as well as a perfect stranger in Calle Crosera asking me in German if I had just seen a blond woman?!)

Beside a feeling of a scaling-up invasion of the (industrial) cannoli, I (fortunately!) discovered on the day before last that the traditional pasticceria Tonolo was still open, contrary to an impression gotten from before- and after-hours passages, and indulged in tasting their artisanal cannolo.

Still on the food scene, I ended up most tragically (!) missing a dinner at trattoria Da’a Marisa (the best osterie of Italy!) as it had been reserved without us being aware of it, while suffering half of a mediocre copy by San Trovaso (with half-frozen folpetti without sauce, salmon and imported prawn in the antipasti, and a horrifyingly crunchy risotto..!), while enjoying a few good dishes like tagliatelle with squid and elaborate vegetarian ravioli. And celebrating my exiting the hospital and its two-day fast with a latte machiatto and (outlandish) pain au raisin!