Archive for guided climb

the (In)accessible Pinnacle

Posted in Mountains, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on June 1, 2026 by xi'an

While I already climbed the three northernmost peaks of the Cuillin ridge in August 2017, the eight other ones remained to be visited, with the most tantalising of them all, the Inaccessible Pinnacle! Also known as Sgùrr Dearg. And The Pin. The ICMS workshop was a unique opportunity for this. Which called for a guide in order to maximise the chances of success and also minimise the weight of my bag. In retrospect, given the wet and windy conditions that day, I could not have climbed the Pin by myself… There was no technical difficulty, plenty of holds for feet and hands, and the two pitches were quite short. But climbing with wet gloves, frozen hands, and hiking boots, under a strong wind,  made it a wee bit challenging, with the protection set midway by the (free-climbing) guide reassuring. The abseil was short (20m) and straightforward, even though the gale was pushing us sideway. It took less than one hour from the bottom of the pinnacle to the top and back to said bottom. Luckily, there was no other team before us, as we passed two of them on the hike up, and thus we did not have to wait in miserable conditions. And, bonus!, we were finished early enough to scramble to the nearby Sgùrr na Banachdaich (with some route finding skills required from Adam, my guide, in the relentless mist) and be back at the car in less than six hours. A terrific experience, fully enjoyed, if sadly missing the views (and hence the pictures!) since we stayed in the cloud the entire day. It is most unlikely that there will be another ICMS workshop to visit the other Skye Munroes before I retire!

Back to Aussois, back to Vanoise!

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on December 3, 2025 by xi'an

So wonderful to be back in Aussois, 20 years later! Same place, same reason, namely a meeting with young statisticians. (Plus the call of the mountains!) And same guide, Baptiste Damevin, as well! Who in the meanwhile got into a mountain accident the very same day I had my climbing accident, albeit a much more serious one since he was swept by an avalanche on the Dent Parrachée—Éric and I climbed with him in 2003—while ski touring, falling down more than 500m and surviving multiple fractures! Five other alpine touring skiers got caught as well, three of whom died. Baptiste did recover from injuries that should have left him permanently incapacitated and resumed his guiding and mountaineering activities. Kudos!!


Fortunately, he was available for a day hike and he took us (Julyan, Guillaume and I) to the Grand Aiguille Rousse (3482m) on a favourable (sunny and decently cold) day. While the hike was reasonably easy, with mostly hard snow, I was still tired from my earlier marathonian efforts and decided to turn back at 3000m before the steepest bits, in order to let the others get to and enjoy the summit. And return back to the car before dark.

death on the Großglockner

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , on June 24, 2025 by xi'an

Squamish snapshot [jatp]

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , on August 14, 2018 by xi'an