Archive for alpinism
Mount Hood [jatp]
Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running with tags 11000ft, alpinism, downhill skiing, hiking, jatp, JSM 2024, Mount Hood, Oregon, Pacific crest trail, ski lift, ski resorts, ski run, slush, summer skiing, Timberline Lodge, USA, vacations, volcano on August 5, 2024 by xi'an
the alpinist [film review]
Posted in Books, Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running with tags Alaska, alpinism, Alpinist, blog, Canada, Cerro Torre, Dawn Wall, El Capitan, film review, free climbing, ice climbing, ice-axe, Jeddah, Juneau, Marc-André Leclerc, Mendenhall Glacier, Mount Robson, Patagonia, solo climbing, Squamish, Vancouver on June 1, 2023 by xi'an
Watched (with supplementary oxygen) The Alpinist in the plane to Jeddah. It is a documentary (made by the same filmmakers who filmed the Dawn Wall) about the amazing Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, who died in 2018 on the Mendenhall Glacier, Alaska, in an avalanche, after achieving extraordinary complex solo climbs as eg on Mount Robbson, Cerro Torre in Patagonia. These are winter climbs, partly ice climbing, where no repetition is possible and where the objective conditions (hence dangers) may vary considerably. In that regard, these achievements could be argued to go even beyond Alex Honnold’s free solo climb of El Capitan, where Honnold practiced the route over and over before making his successful free solo attempt. (Obviously an inhuman achievement when considering the hardest bits are at least 7c!) Watching Marc-André Leclerc when mixed climbing is just as heart stopping as watching Honnold rock climbing. He must have been incredibly strong to master these monstruous icy walls and maintain his absolute vigilance in each crampon move, in each ice-pick placement. Sadly it ended up with an avalanche… I obviously enjoyed X’ing many places I had visited, like the approach walk to Robson (in 1991!), the Three Sisters of Canmore [below], and routes of Squamish [above]. (I wonder who filmed during these non-advertised climbs. For instance, he told no one except his partner when he summited Mount Robson. In some cases he was clearly self-filing at lower intensity points, but in others it could have been an helicopter (or a drone?). In this respect, but by far not only in this respect, his blog is definitely worth the read.)
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200 years making history
Posted in Statistics with tags alpine climbing, alpinism, Chamonix, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, France, French Alps, history, Mont Blanc, mountaineering on March 11, 2020 by xi'an
