Archive for Eastern Europe
free solo
Posted in Mountains with tags Adam Ondra, Alex Honnold, California, climbing accident, documentary, Eastern Europe, El Capitan, free climbing, Free Solo, National Geographic, Yosemite on September 21, 2021 by xi'ana journal of the [second] plague year
Posted in Books, Kids, pictures, Travel, University life with tags Balkans, bédé, Cairo, communism, djinn, Eastern block, Eastern Europe, Egypt, El Buscòn, Francisco de Quevedo, horror, Korea, Korean cinema, Kpop, Olen Steinhauer, pasta, pasta machine, picaresque novel, Restif de La Bretonne, science fiction, soba noodles, time travel, tramcar, WW II on April 10, 2021 by xi'an
Read the picaresque El Buscòn (in French, translated by Nicolas Restif de La Bretonne), dating from 1602-1604, but the classic French translation from a century later is quite enjoyable and the story often hilarious. (I read this book after reading in 2019 the BD (comics) by Alain Ayroles and Juanjo Guarnido called les Indes Fourbes, that was inspired from El Buscòn and pretended to produce its sequel, located in South America). Also read the second volume of Olen Steinhauer, The Confession, just as impressive a dig into the minutiae of a Balkanic socialist dictature as the first one. And into the complex mind of another militia inspector in the homicide squad. (Just wondering if there were truly paper cups in the post-war Eastern block!)

Made my first fresh pastas with the traditional pasta machine my daughter got me as a Xmas present! I need improvements but, despite the mess this creates (flour everywhere!), it is a real treat to eat fresh pastas. The next goal is to check if soba noodles can be made with the machine….
Watched some parts of a rather terrible Korean series, Demon Catchers (or The Uncanny Counter). With absolutely no redeeming feature, although a very popular show… And the beginning episodes of another SF Korean series, Alice, playing with time travel themes until it hit the usual paradoxes. (At least the physics fomulae on the white boards sounded correct, even though the grossly romanticised home office of a physics professor made no sense.)
Gave up on Augusto Cruz’ London after Midnight. Which revolves around the search for a surviving copy of the 1927 horror movie London after midnight, made by Tod Browning, and seemingly cursed. The plot is terrible and the style awful, an unpalatable endless infodump… Read P. Djeli Clark’s delightful short story A Dead Djinn in Cairo, which is a prequel to Haunting of tramcar 105 about a supernatural Cairo in the early 1900’s.
![Somewhat surprisingly, I had not yet watched this filming of Alex Honnold's free solo climb of Free Rider on El Capitan, Yosemite. Mostly because I had not seen it on my usual channels. But also because I was and still is ambivalent about free soloing. While I understand that Honnold's abilities are way above the 7c+ level of Free Rider, the ratio risk to ability in this approach remains infinite. A single slip of one foot and... Some of the hardest passages made me cringe to the point I stopped the video for a while. As it seems much much harder than 7c+. (Adam Ondra stated that climbing 9a was easier than free soloing this route. He also wondered whether the free-solo climbing is good or not, whether [he] should write about it or not.) While the filming was impressive and as little intrusive as possible, I also wondered at the impact it had on Honnold and his commitment to trying the climb. It was most interesting to see him stopping an earlier attempt after a few hundred feet because he felt this pressure was too high. On the other hand, I did not appreciate the inter-personal parts as imho it stops being personal once filmed and broadcasted. Still, in the end, this is a unique exploit for climbing, exhibiting a perfection in hold placements the whole 1000+ meters.](https://i0.wp.com/lumiere-a.akamaihd.net/v1/images/docfilmswebsite_1080x1600_freesolo_91d7bed0.jpeg?w=450&ssl=1)