To sort of make up for the failed attempt at Monte Rosa, we stayed an extra day and took a hike in Vale d’Aosta, starting from Cogne where we had a summer school a few years ago. And from where we started for another failed attempt at La Grivola. It was a brilliant day and we climbed to the Rifugio Vittorio Stella (2588m) [along with many many other hikers], then lost the crowds to the Colle della Rossa (3195m), which meant a 1700m easy climb. By the end of the valley, we came across steinbocks (aka bouquetins, stambecchi) resting in the sun by a creek and unfazed by our cameras. (Abele Blanc told us later that they are usually staying there, licking whatever salt they can find on the stones.)
The final climb to the pass was a bit steeper but enormously rewarding, with views of the Western Swiss Alps in full glory (Matterhorn, Combin, Breithorn) and all to ourselves. From there it was a downhill hike all the way back to our car in Cogne, 1700m, with no technical difficulty once we had crossed the few hundred meters of residual snow. And with the added reward of seeing several herds of the shy chamois mountain goat.
Except that my daughter’s rental mountaineering shoes started to make themselves heard and that she could barely walk downwards. (She eventually lost her big toe nails!) It thus took us forever to get down (despite me running to the car and back to get lighter shoes) and we came to the car at 8:30, too late to contemplate a drive back to Paris.




nt a family vacation there a few years ago and we did a lot of climbing and hiking in the park, including this climb of an equipped dam. To the point that my kids are now “saturated” with mountains and have quickly signed for a summer camp at the beach instead…! The good side of this is that we will have more leeway for doing real mountaineering, like going back to the top of Gran Paradiso or even maybe to Monte Bianco by the Italian route. There is also a walk during the course that is organised by the wardens of the park, which means we will see animals like bouquetins (alpine ibex) and chamois we usually do not see, although bouquetins are not particularly shy, as shown by this picture I took on a morning run during the last visit…