During the past week of vacations in Chamonix, I spent some days down-hill skiing (which I find increasingly boring!), X-country skiing (way better), swimming (indoors!) and running, but the highlight (and the number one reason for going there!) was an ice cascade climb with a local guide, Sylvain (from the mythical Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix). There were very options due to the avalanche high risk and Sylvain picked a route called Déferlante at the top of Les Grands Montets cabin stop and next to the end of a small icefield, Glacier d’Argentière. We went there quite early to catch the first cabin up, along a whole horde of badasss skiers and snowboarders, and reached the top of the route by foot first, a wee bit after 9 pm. A second guide and a client appeared before we were ready to abseil down, and two more groups would appear later. On touring skis. Continue reading
Archive for ice climbing
a faint memory of ice
Posted in Books, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags avalanches, Brandon Sanderson, Chamonix, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, cross-country skiing, Glacier d'Argentière, ice climbing, icefield, Les Grands Montets, skis, snowboard, Sven Eriksson, Tad Williams, youtube on March 17, 2018 by xi'anoff to Chamonix!
Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags Aiguille des Grands Charmoz, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, French Alps, ice climbing, jatp, Les Houches, MCMSki IV, Mont Blanc, ski town, vacations on March 2, 2018 by xi'anThe Terminal [#2]
Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags Air France, Amsterdam, Banff, Canada, Delhi, ice climbing, Schiphol, The Terminal on February 19, 2017 by xi'an
For the third time within a year, I have been stuck in an airport hotel by missing a connection! This time on my way to Calgary, thanks to fog over Paris and Amsterdam. And to Air France refusing to switch me to an earlier flight from Paris. Not as strictly stuck as in Delhi, as I could get outside in a sort of no man’s land between runways and expressways, or even reach downtown Amsterdam by public transportation, but with 24 hours to wait for the next flight. The most frustrating part is missing the ice-climbing day I had organised in Banff…
Climbing Ice – The Iceland Trifecta
Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags ice climbing, icebergs, Iceland, Klemen Premrl, Rahel Schelb, SmugMug Films, Vatnajökull on July 1, 2016 by xi'anice-climbing Niagara Falls
Posted in Mountains, pictures with tags British Columbia, Canada, Helmcken Falls, ice climbing, Niagara Falls, Niagara-on-the-Lake, USA on March 1, 2015 by xi'an
I had missed these news that a frozen portion of the Niagara Falls had been ice-climbed. By Will Gadd on Jan. 27. This is obviously quite impressive given the weird and dangerous nature of the ice there, which is mostly frozen foam from the nearby waterfall. (I once climbed an easy route on such ice at the Chutes Montmorency, near Québec City, and it felt quite strange…) He even had a special ice hook designed for that climb as he did not trust the usual ice screws. Will Gadd has however climbed much more difficult routes like Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, which may be the hardest mixed route in the World!


